The Basset Hound is one of several antiquated members of the Basset family, including the Basset Artésien Normand and the Basset Bleu de Gascogne. These dogs are easily recognized for their short hound coats, as well as their short stature, long noses, and long hound ears. In fact, the Basset family gets its name from the French word Bas, meaning short or low-set.
These French hounds are the descendants of the legendary hounds of St. Hubert from 1000 AD. St. Hubert’s Hounds were descendants of the Spartan Hounds, which were ancient scent hounds. These scent hounds were described as being short-legged and with deep voices. These hounds were brought from Greece to Constantinople and from Constantinople to Europe and France.
The French bassets were developed in France as scent hounds used to hunt game such as rabbits and foxes. While their short legs may hinder their overall speed and agility, one major advantage they have over their leggier cousins is that the Basset family can hunt in dense brush and thickets much better than larger hounds. Furthermore, their scenting ability is outstanding, being second only to the Bloodhounds.
Prior to the 1790s, the longer-legged hounds were primarily used to hunt alongside the noblemen’s horses. It is believed that the short-legged achondroplastic mutation that results in the shortened long bones of the Bassett’s legs is the result of a genetic alteration of the Norman Staghounds of their day, which were also descendants of the St. Hubert’s Hounds. The benefits of such short-legged dogs were realized when the French Revolution of 1789 allowed the common man to hunt (albeit on foot rather than on horseback). These shorter-legged hounds were easier to keep up with and were excellent at hunting smaller game, providing a commoner’s family with a tasty meal for their efforts.
The basset-type hounds continued to rise in popularity from 1850 to 1870, during the reign of Napoleon III. In 1863 the first dog show was held in Paris, France, and as a result, the French bassets were promoted to the international stage. After their warm reception at the Paris dog show, basset enthusiasts began implementing controlled breeding practices, which were tedious but resulted in refined short-coated, short-legged bassets. The Chien d’Artois, a straight-legged scenting hound, and the Basset Normand sporting the Queen Anne style legs were also developed around that time. Eventually, the two were bred together to produce the Basset Artésien Normand breed.
In 1866 Lord Galway imported the first Basset Artesian Normand hounds to England from France. The Norman Bassets were then bred to local hounds and other basset types imported from France. Eventually, the importing of French Bassets to England ceased, and it was from these original basset strains that the English Basset Hound was developed into the low-slung, droopy hound we know and love today. By the 1880s, linebreeding in England produced a heavier type of Norman Basset. In the 1890s, a gentleman by the name of Sir Everett Millais, credited with being the originator of the modern-day Basset Hound in England, reportedly bred a heavier-boned Norman Basset sire named Nicholas to a Bloodhound dam named Inoculation to produce the heavier Basset we know today. The surviving whelps were then crossed back to French Norman bassets and English bassets to refine the desired type further. It wasn’t until the end of the nineteenth century that the first official breed standard for the Basset Hound was written, and the Basset Hound was officially recognized as a separate breed from the Norman Basset.
The first Bassets Hounds were imported to the United States from France and resembled the Norman Bassets more than the English Basset Hounds. However, the breed began to develop into the larger-boned companion dog that we see today in the United States around the 1920s when heavier, bigger-boned dogs were imported from English kennels and bred to the existing Basset Hounds in America.
The Basset Hound’s extreme conformation has set the breed apart but also resulted in a diminished quality of life due to the many health issues accompanying such extremes of breed type. It is for this reason that Continental Kennel has developed a standard for the Basset Hound less extreme in an exaggerated type of height to size ratio for the purpose of improving the overall health of the Basset Hound.
Breed Characteristics
Head: Rather long and somewhat dolichocephalic in skull type and in proportion to the rest of the body. It appears narrow in comparison to the length. The skull is domed and of moderate width, with a prominent occiput. A cleaner, dryer head is preferred to one with excessive wrinkles or loose, pendulous skin.
Eyes: Moderate in size, oval to almond in shape, and may range from amber green or medium to dark brown in color, depending on coat color. The eye rims are well-fitted with no sign of looseness. The haw of a hunting or working dog should never be exposed, as it could catch debris. Any signs of entropion or ectropion are to be penalized. There should be sufficient bone in the surrounding orbital sockets to protect the eyes.
Ears: The ears are set low on the skull, level with the line of the eye when in repose. Standard hound ears that do not exceed the length of the muzzle are preferred to the excessively pendulous ears that drag the floor when the head is down to scent, as these ear types trap dirt, food, and debris and are prone to infection.
Muzzle: The muzzle is long, full, deep, and broad. The upper and lower jaws have good bone substance, appearing strong and well-developed, never appearing snipey or weak.
Nose: The nose is well-pigmented, black, or self-colored, according to the coat. The nostrils are well-opened.
Neck: Moderate length and strongly muscled, with a slight arch. The neck tapers just slightly from the deeper and broader body toward the head. Preference should be given to necks that are clean-cut, without excess skin, throatiness, or dewlap. Excessive throatiness or dewlaps obstructing the neck's outline are to be penalized.
Chest: Deep and broad but never wider than deep. The brisket extends to the point of the elbows or drops just below. The forechest is well-developed but not prominent. Excess skin on the chest is undesirable.
Body: Compact, solid, and good substance. The body is never racy or refined. The width at the forequarters is approximately equal to the width at the hindquarters.
Feet: Oval to round, compact, with well-arched toes and tough pads. Excess bone and knuckles are undesirable. Forefeet may orient straight ahead or may be slightly toed out.
Tail: Set high on the croup, thick at the base and tapering toward the tip. Carried in accordance with the dog’s mood and energy level, but never tucked or carried up over the back. When alert or in motion, the tail is carried above the level of the horizontal. The tail is of a medium length, with the tip of the last vertebrae extending to the hock joints when held down. The tail may be straight or gently curved.
Movement: The Basset Hound is a working breed and, therefore, should be capable of effortless and efficient movement with great endurance. Any structural feature or exaggeration that diminishes the dog’s ability to move freely is incorrect. The characteristics of a healthy structure are evident. When moving away, the forelegs and rear pasterns should remain parallel to one another. When viewing movement from the front, the forelegs should remain parallel, with elbows and paws moving neither in nor out. From the rear, the back pads should be visible when the rear legs are extended. As speed increases, the forelimbs and hindlimbs will converge to the center line of gravity. From the side, the topline should remain firm and level. Good reach of movement in the front allows the forepaw to extend out in line with the nose. When extended, the width between the forefeet should be approximately equal to the width between the hindfeet when extended, indicating balance, good reach, and good drive. Dogs that exhibit any sign of breathing or locomotive difficulty shall be disqualified from the show ring.
Temperament: The Basset Hound is a very pack-oriented breed, whether that pack is other dogs or humans. They are known to be very sociable, outgoing, and affectionate. Excelling in scent work, they adore any opportunity to exercise their nose, which is second only to that of the bloodhound. Their hunting and scenting instincts can be quite strong, even in lines no longer used for hunting. This makes them great dogs for hobby-scenting work. Many hunters today find them an excellent candidate for blood-trailing game lost in the woods since they are easier to keep up with than the longer-legged hounds and can navigate easily through dense or low brush and briar. Any unprovoked aggressive or fearful behavior toward people is incorrect for this breed.
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Breed Standard
BREED GROUP 7: Scenthounds and Related Breeds
Proportions: The Bloodhound is an off-square to somewhat rectangular breed, with the length of the body from the point of the chest to the point of the rump being greater than the height at the withers. The ideal body height-to-length ratio is approximately 5:4. The body is well-put-together. The substance is sturdy and moderately heavy-boned yet still athletic in appearance and capabilities. Males should appear masculine, being more substantial in size and mass, while females should appear more feminine and slightly less substantial. Neither should lack overall type. Overly massive or weedy dogs are incorrect, as are dogs with an exaggerated abundance of skin. The weight of a male or female is always in proportion to height.
Head
General Appearance: Rather long and somewhat dolichocephalic in skull type and in proportion to the rest of the body. It appears narrow in comparison to the length. The skull is domed and of moderate width, with a prominent occiput. A cleaner, dryer head is preferred to one with excessive wrinkles or loose, pendulous skin.
Expression: The expression is alert, calm, and noble.
Stop: The stop is moderate, never abrupt.
Skull: The ideal muzzle-to-skull ratio is between 1:1 and 2:3, with the topskull being equal to or just slightly longer than the muzzle. The ideal muzzle-to-skull axis may range from parallel to slightly divergent.
Muzzle: The muzzle is long, full, deep, and broad. The upper and lower jaws have good bone substance, appearing strong and well-developed, never appearing snipey or weak.
Lips or Flews: The upper lip may cover the lower jaw but should not appear overly pendulous and hanging nor tight-lipped like that of a beagle. A dryer lip is preferred to an excessively pendulous lip that extends well below the jawline.
Nose: The nose is well-pigmented, black, or self-colored, according to the coat. The nostrils are well-opened.
Cheeks: The cheeks are smooth and clean. The cheeks should not appear chiseled or coarse.
Dentition and Bite: Forty-two strong, clean, and white teeth. The bite may be level, scissor, or reverse-scissor. Contact must be made between the top and bottom incisors. Missing or broken teeth due to routine work are not to be penalized.
Eyes: Moderate in size, oval to almond in shape, and may range from amber green or medium to dark brown in color, depending on coat color. The eye rims are well-fitted with no sign of looseness. The haw of a hunting or working dog should never be exposed, as it could catch debris. Any signs of entropion or ectropion are to be penalized. There should be sufficient bone in the surrounding orbital sockets to protect the eyes.
Ears: The ears are set low on the skull, level with the line of the eye when in repose. Standard hound ears that do not exceed the length of the muzzle are preferred to the excessively pendulous ears that drag the floor when the head is down to scent, as these ear types trap dirt, food, and debris and are prone to infection.
Body and Tail
General Description: Compact, solid, and good substance. The body is never racy or refined. The width at the forequarters is approximately equal to the width at the hindquarters.
Neck: Moderate length and strongly muscled, with a slight arch. The neck tapers just slightly from the deeper and broader body toward the head. Preference should be given to necks that are clean-cut, without excess skin, throatiness, or dewlap. Excessive throatiness or dewlaps obstructing the neck's outline are to be penalized.
Chest: Deep and broad but never wider than deep. The brisket extends to the point of the elbows or drops just below. The forechest is well-developed but not prominent. Excess skin on the chest is undesirable.
Topline: Level from withers to croup. The back is broad, strongly muscled, and straight, yet supple. The loin is taut and may be flat, level, or slightly arched, yet supportive. The topline is never swayed or roached.
Croup: The croup may be flat or have a slight slope.
Underline: A slight tuck-up may be present, or the underline may run parallel to the topline. The underline is taut and firm, without any indication of sagging or excess weight. The distance from the ground to the underline should equal at least 1/3 of the body height (from the withers to the ground) to allow for adequate ground clearance.
Ribs: Long, well-sprung, well-laid-back, oval-shaped, never barrel-chested or slab-sided.
Tail: Set high on the croup, thick at the base and tapering toward the tip. Carried in accordance with the dog’s mood and energy level, but never tucked or carried up over the back. When alert or in motion, the tail is carried above the level of the horizontal. The tail is of a medium length, with the tip of the last vertebrae extending to the hock joints when held down. The tail may be straight or gently curved.
Forequarters and Hindquarters
Forequarters: The forequarters are always balanced with the hindquarters and well-angulated with well-laid-back shoulder blades. Shoulder blades are approximately equal in length to the upper arm and forearm, which are dwarfed. Wrinkling and excess skin on the forequarters is undesirable.
Elbows: The elbows are close to the body. The point of the elbows is approximately half the dog’s height at the withers, or the depth of the body may be 2/3 the distance of the elbow to the ground.
Forelegs: Frontal View: Straight, of good muscle and bone, and parallel to one another. A slight inclination inward is not a fault as long as they are straight. Legs or pasterns that touch in the “Queen Anne” style forelimbs are undesirable. Side View: The forelimbs appear straight with strong pasterns.
Pasterns: Never weak or broken.
Hindquarters: The upper and lower thighs are equal in length, strong, sturdy, of good bone, and well-muscled. Wrinkling and excess skin on the hindquarters is undesirable. Rear View: When viewed from the rear, the rear pasterns are parallel to one another. Side View: Good angulation will allow the rear toes to align with the point of the rump or within one paw-length behind the point of the rump, with the rear pasterns remaining perpendicular to the ground and parallel to one another.
Stifle Joint: Well-angulated with a good bend to well-let-down rear pasterns.
Angulations: The angulation of the hindquarters is always in balance with the angulation of the forequarters.
Feet: Oval to round, compact, with well-arched toes and tough pads. Excess bone and knuckles are undesirable. Forefeet may orient straight ahead or may be slightly toed out.
Coat
Skin: Well-fitted, yet supple. The skin should never obstruct the outline of the dog. Excess, loose, or pendulous skin on the body, head, or appendages is undesirable and hinders the dog’s ability to move effortlessly and maintain internal temperature.
Coat Type: Continental Kennel Club recognizes two coat varieties of the Basset Hound: the smooth coat and the flat coat.
Smooth coat variety: The coat is short, smooth, and close to the body throughout. The texture is soft and glossy with a dense, protective undercoat. The coat will be slightly longer on the neck, forming a light ruff, and on the tail. No fringe or feather is permissible.
Long-coat variety: The coat is short on the face, forehead, and front of the forelimbs and hindlimbs. The coat is medium-length on the body, neck, ears, rear of the limbs, feet, and tail, appearing well-fringed. The coat should never be abundantly thick, abundantly long, or silky.
Coat Color or Pattern: Black, liver, or blue, all with or without tan points, creeping tan, or running tan, all with or without white markings, ticking, or roaning. Cream, fawn, lemon, tan, orange, red, mahogany, sable, grizzle, agouti, hare pied, badger pied, all with or without tan markings, ticking, or roaning. Bi-color, tri-color, hound color, etc.
Movement
The Basset Hound is a working breed and, therefore, should be capable of effortless and efficient movement with great endurance. Any structural feature or exaggeration that diminishes the dog’s ability to move freely is incorrect. The characteristics of a healthy structure are evident. When moving away, the forelegs and rear pasterns should remain parallel to one another. When viewing movement from the front, the forelegs should remain parallel, with elbows and paws moving neither in nor out. From the rear, the back pads should be visible when the rear legs are extended. As speed increases, the forelimbs and hindlimbs will converge to the center line of gravity. From the side, the topline should remain firm and level. Good reach of movement in the front allows the forepaw to extend out in line with the nose. When extended, the width between the forefeet should be approximately equal to the width between the hindfeet when extended, indicating balance, good reach, and good drive. Dogs that exhibit any sign of breathing or locomotive difficulty shall be disqualified from the show ring.
Temperament
The Basset Hound is a very pack-oriented breed, whether that pack is other dogs or humans. They are known to be very sociable, outgoing, and affectionate. Excelling in scent work, they adore any opportunity to exercise their nose, which is second only to that of the bloodhound. Their hunting and scenting instincts can be quite strong, even in lines no longer used for hunting. This makes them great dogs for hobby-scenting work. Many hunters today find them an excellent candidate for blood-trailing game lost in the woods since they are easier to keep up with than the longer-legged hounds and can navigate easily through dense or low brush and briar. Any unprovoked aggressive or fearful behavior toward people is incorrect for this breed.
Faults
All dogs should be in proper healthy condition, free from disease or defect. Any departure from this description is considered a fault. Unless altered, all male dogs should have two fully descended testicles.
Proportions: The Bloodhound is an off-square to somewhat rectangular breed, with the length of the body from the point of the chest to the point of the rump being greater than the height at the withers. The ideal body height-to-length ratio is approximately 5:4. The body is well-put-together. The substance is sturdy and moderately heavy-boned yet still athletic in appearance and capabilities. Males should appear masculine, being more substantial in size and mass, while females should appear more feminine and slightly less substantial. Neither should lack overall type. Overly massive or weedy dogs are incorrect, as are dogs with an exaggerated abundance of skin. The weight of a male or female is always in proportion to height.
Head
General Appearance: Rather long and somewhat dolichocephalic in skull type and in proportion to the rest of the body. It appears narrow in comparison to the length. The skull is domed and of moderate width, with a prominent occiput. A cleaner, dryer head is preferred to one with excessive wrinkles or loose, pendulous skin.
Expression: The expression is alert, calm, and noble.
Stop: The stop is moderate, never abrupt.
Skull: The ideal muzzle-to-skull ratio is between 1:1 and 2:3, with the topskull being equal to or just slightly longer than the muzzle. The ideal muzzle-to-skull axis may range from parallel to slightly divergent.
Muzzle: The muzzle is long, full, deep, and broad. The upper and lower jaws have good bone substance, appearing strong and well-developed, never appearing snipey or weak.
Lips or Flews: The upper lip may cover the lower jaw but should not appear overly pendulous and hanging nor tight-lipped like that of a beagle. A dryer lip is preferred to an excessively pendulous lip that extends well below the jawline.
Nose: The nose is well-pigmented, black, or self-colored, according to the coat. The nostrils are well-opened.
Cheeks: The cheeks are smooth and clean. The cheeks should not appear chiseled or coarse.
Dentition and Bite: Forty-two strong, clean, and white teeth. The bite may be level, scissor, or reverse-scissor. Contact must be made between the top and bottom incisors. Missing or broken teeth due to routine work are not to be penalized.
Eyes: Moderate in size, oval to almond in shape, and may range from amber green or medium to dark brown in color, depending on coat color. The eye rims are well-fitted with no sign of looseness. The haw of a hunting or working dog should never be exposed, as it could catch debris. Any signs of entropion or ectropion are to be penalized. There should be sufficient bone in the surrounding orbital sockets to protect the eyes.
Ears: The ears are set low on the skull, level with the line of the eye when in repose. Standard hound ears that do not exceed the length of the muzzle are preferred to the excessively pendulous ears that drag the floor when the head is down to scent, as these ear types trap dirt, food, and debris and are prone to infection.
Body and Tail
General Description: Compact, solid, and good substance. The body is never racy or refined. The width at the forequarters is approximately equal to the width at the hindquarters.
Neck: Moderate length and strongly muscled, with a slight arch. The neck tapers just slightly from the deeper and broader body toward the head. Preference should be given to necks that are clean-cut, without excess skin, throatiness, or dewlap. Excessive throatiness or dewlaps obstructing the neck's outline are to be penalized.
Chest: Deep and broad but never wider than deep. The brisket extends to the point of the elbows or drops just below. The forechest is well-developed but not prominent. Excess skin on the chest is undesirable.
Topline: Level from withers to croup. The back is broad, strongly muscled, and straight, yet supple. The loin is taut and may be flat, level, or slightly arched, yet supportive. The topline is never swayed or roached.
Croup: The croup may be flat or have a slight slope.
Underline: A slight tuck-up may be present, or the underline may run parallel to the topline. The underline is taut and firm, without any indication of sagging or excess weight. The distance from the ground to the underline should equal at least 1/3 of the body height (from the withers to the ground) to allow for adequate ground clearance.
Ribs: Long, well-sprung, well-laid-back, oval-shaped, never barrel-chested or slab-sided.
Tail: Set high on the croup, thick at the base and tapering toward the tip. Carried in accordance with the dog’s mood and energy level, but never tucked or carried up over the back. When alert or in motion, the tail is carried above the level of the horizontal. The tail is of a medium length, with the tip of the last vertebrae extending to the hock joints when held down. The tail may be straight or gently curved.
Forequarters and Hindquarters
Forequarters: The forequarters are always balanced with the hindquarters and well-angulated with well-laid-back shoulder blades. Shoulder blades are approximately equal in length to the upper arm and forearm, which are dwarfed. Wrinkling and excess skin on the forequarters is undesirable.
Elbows: The elbows are close to the body. The point of the elbows is approximately half the dog’s height at the withers, or the depth of the body may be 2/3 the distance of the elbow to the ground.
Forelegs: Frontal View: Straight, of good muscle and bone, and parallel to one another. A slight inclination inward is not a fault as long as they are straight. Legs or pasterns that touch in the “Queen Anne” style forelimbs are undesirable. Side View: The forelimbs appear straight with strong pasterns.
Pasterns: Never weak or broken.
Hindquarters: The upper and lower thighs are equal in length, strong, sturdy, of good bone, and well-muscled. Wrinkling and excess skin on the hindquarters is undesirable. Rear View: When viewed from the rear, the rear pasterns are parallel to one another. Side View: Good angulation will allow the rear toes to align with the point of the rump or within one paw-length behind the point of the rump, with the rear pasterns remaining perpendicular to the ground and parallel to one another.
Stifle Joint: Well-angulated with a good bend to well-let-down rear pasterns.
Angulations: The angulation of the hindquarters is always in balance with the angulation of the forequarters.
Feet: Oval to round, compact, with well-arched toes and tough pads. Excess bone and knuckles are undesirable. Forefeet may orient straight ahead or may be slightly toed out.
Coat
Skin: Well-fitted, yet supple. The skin should never obstruct the outline of the dog. Excess, loose, or pendulous skin on the body, head, or appendages is undesirable and hinders the dog’s ability to move effortlessly and maintain internal temperature.
Coat Type: Continental Kennel Club recognizes two coat varieties of the Basset Hound: the smooth coat and the flat coat.
Smooth coat variety: The coat is short, smooth, and close to the body throughout. The texture is soft and glossy with a dense, protective undercoat. The coat will be slightly longer on the neck, forming a light ruff, and on the tail. No fringe or feather is permissible.
Long-coat variety: The coat is short on the face, forehead, and front of the forelimbs and hindlimbs. The coat is medium-length on the body, neck, ears, rear of the limbs, feet, and tail, appearing well-fringed. The coat should never be abundantly thick, abundantly long, or silky.
Coat Color or Pattern: Black, liver, or blue, all with or without tan points, creeping tan, or running tan, all with or without white markings, ticking, or roaning. Cream, fawn, lemon, tan, orange, red, mahogany, sable, grizzle, agouti, hare pied, badger pied, all with or without tan markings, ticking, or roaning. Bi-color, tri-color, hound color, etc.
Movement
The Basset Hound is a working breed and, therefore, should be capable of effortless and efficient movement with great endurance. Any structural feature or exaggeration that diminishes the dog’s ability to move freely is incorrect. The characteristics of a healthy structure are evident. When moving away, the forelegs and rear pasterns should remain parallel to one another. When viewing movement from the front, the forelegs should remain parallel, with elbows and paws moving neither in nor out. From the rear, the back pads should be visible when the rear legs are extended. As speed increases, the forelimbs and hindlimbs will converge to the center line of gravity. From the side, the topline should remain firm and level. Good reach of movement in the front allows the forepaw to extend out in line with the nose. When extended, the width between the forefeet should be approximately equal to the width between the hindfeet when extended, indicating balance, good reach, and good drive. Dogs that exhibit any sign of breathing or locomotive difficulty shall be disqualified from the show ring.
Temperament
The Basset Hound is a very pack-oriented breed, whether that pack is other dogs or humans. They are known to be very sociable, outgoing, and affectionate. Excelling in scent work, they adore any opportunity to exercise their nose, which is second only to that of the bloodhound. Their hunting and scenting instincts can be quite strong, even in lines no longer used for hunting. This makes them great dogs for hobby-scenting work. Many hunters today find them an excellent candidate for blood-trailing game lost in the woods since they are easier to keep up with than the longer-legged hounds and can navigate easily through dense or low brush and briar. Any unprovoked aggressive or fearful behavior toward people is incorrect for this breed.
Faults
All dogs should be in proper healthy condition, free from disease or defect. Any departure from this description is considered a fault. Unless altered, all male dogs should have two fully descended testicles.
Dog Fact #62
Dogs have a secondary chemical-detecting organ in addition to a super-scenting nose. It’s called the vomeronasal organ, or Jacobson’s organ, that allows the dog to pick up and interpret chemical transmitters such as pheromones.
